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When curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, situated high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” states the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble place achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.